Yes, tomorrow (Thursday), the 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau arrives in your local wine store!
What’s the big deal? you might ask.
Gather around, children, and let me tell you a story about an amazing event that happened long ago in a land far, far away…
Nah. I’ll just tell you about the wine.
Beaujolais is a wine-growing region in France, north of Lyon. In a space about the size of Rhode Island are some 40,000 vineyards with 50,000 acres of Gamay grape vines.
Interesting factoid: The land was first cultivated for grapes by the early Romans. Throughout the middle ages, the Benedictines controlled the region.
Fast-forward to modern times. In 1933, Georges Duboeuf was born on a small farm in that region. His father tended a few acres of vines. But the senior Duboeuf died when Georges was young, and the vineyard was taken over by Georges’ uncle and brother.
At 18, Georges began marketing the family wine to local restaurants, delivering bottles of the wine by bicycle. Now 76, Georges oversees the cultivation of thousands of acres of grapes and the bottling of 2.5 million cases per year.Duboeuf has made many contributions to the wine world, one of which was the mass-marketing of Beaujolais Nouveau. Beaujolais Nouveau, or “new wine”, was a familiar drink in the Beaujolais region, used to celebrate another successful harvest. Due to a different processing and pasteurization, Beaujolais Nouveau is ready to drink just 6-8 weeks after the harvest.
Unlike other wines that get better with age, it is highly recommended that one drink the Nouveau within a year. And slightly chilled. It is light and fruity... some say it is the only "red" white wine!
In the late ‘60s, Duboeuf decided to market it to the world. Since French law did not allow new wine to reach market until a particular date (now the third Thursday in November), Duboeuf made a game of it – organizing races to see who could get the first bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau to Paris fastest. The Nouveau craze caught on, and today some 49 million liters of the wine are produced each year.
Of course, Beaujolais Nouveau is not without its critics. In 2001, 1.1 million cases were destroyed due to poor sales. One wine critic that year described it as “vin de merde”... literally translated “Shit Wine”. Beaujolais growers sued the magazine that published the critique and won based on a French law that forbids the disparaging of French products. The magazine folded.
So tomorrow (Thursday), as you drive past your favorite wine shoppe, look for the sign announcing,
Grab a couple bottles – if for no other reason than that this year’s Georges Duboeuf label is awesome!
[Update: I bought several bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau today, but was sad to discover that the above is NOT the label. Sigh. I hope the wine is good!]
Then fix yourself a bologna sandwich, and celebrate an historic tradition. It may taste like “vin de merde” (but hopefully not), but, hey, it only happens once a year!
For interesting reading about wine, consider the following:
- "I’ll Drink to That" by Rudolph Chelminski, about Duboeuf and the history of the Beaujolais region.
- The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace, about the mysterious discovery of some bottles of wine attributed to Thomas Jefferson’s wine cellar.
Ah, the power of film!
“Sideways” has probably my favorite movie monologue, where, during a romantic, reflective moment, Maya (Virginia Madsen) muses:
“I like to think about the life of wine. How it's a living thing. I like to think about what was going on the year the grapes were growing. How the sun was shinning. If it rained. I like to think about all the people who tended and picked the grapes, and if it's an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I like how wine continues to evolve. Like, if I opened a bottle of wine today, it would taste different than if I would open it on any other day. Because a bottle of wine is actually alive. It's constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks. And then it begins it's steady, inevitable decline. And it tastes so f***ing good.”
Enjoy!














